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Forums > Annuals, Perennials and Flowers > foundation plants
 
 


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Ang Dana
    July 11, 2010Reply with quote#1

My house has plants all around the perimeter. I get the impression this is a bad idea for a few reasons and wonder if theres anyone to list some specifics for me?

Conniepr
    July 12, 2010Reply with quote#2

Well, the theory is that you're watering your plants and the water is running down your foundation and possibly seeping in, however, most homes now have ways of keeping that water out.  See if you can find out the history of how your house was built.  Then there's the roots.  As long as the plants are reasonably small, no problem, but if there are trees or large shrubs planted right up against the house, then, the roots could cause problems with the foundation.

Rozmund
    July 13, 2010Reply with quote#3

If some of these foundation plants are really worthwhile - concentrate on them - you do not say now close to the foundation of your house these plants are - if they are perennials they can be moved
away - if some are shrubs that were planted when they were small, and are under the eves of the
house - getting little rain, they will eventually die from the heat given off from the home exterior in the summer - i.e. evergreens...people are notorias for not thinking 2 or 3 years forward to the mature size of a bush or tree....since most plants will spread outwards, or upwards with adequate water - there are a few things you could do - lay flagstones around the perimeter of your home on a slight sland away from the foundation - 1/2" will even do...around this place shredded cedar chips to stop the rain and snow from running too fast - next, when you water, water only in front of the foundation plants to encourage the roots to travel away from the house foundation not towards it....this will work...  if any  plantsdie off results next to the house, trim these off, or keep them short...balance is key, and what is pleasing to the eye creates appeal...any annuals you plant should be mid size and
planted the farthest out from the house, as they will require constant care...to keep them blooming..
ie dead heading, watering, trimming...so you do not want to be crawling into your foundation beds
to do that chore...another thing in nature is - the larger the plant the heavier and more invasive is the root structure...so if you feel you would develop a root problem near your foundation, keep those plants well pruned..general rule, .if they flower in the spring, prune immediately after flowering...if they flower in the fall, again, prune in the fall...if they are evergreens, start to trim after the new growth appears, and do not cut into any brown wood, only the new growth...proper utensils are essentials for ease andd health of the plant..however, best to actually search out a good pruning book for your specific plants...since we do not know where you are located...any pruning should be done with a goal of having the cut heal over before winter...so that insects do not enter the open wound (cut) ...

eventually you will be in control, with minimal expense and labour....and it is a lot of fun...

another thing to keep in mind is the general water table in the area your home was built - you may wish to discuss this with your neighbours or the builder...please let us know how you handle the matter...





Ang Dana
    July 14, 2010Reply with quote#4

I changed my watering habits immediately: water on t yard side to draw them out. It's a 3yr old house with proper weeping tile, vinyl siding and decent drainage. the North side has ostrich ferns all along the house. there are two Valiant grapes on each side of the South door; this side has strawberries, many types of lilies and iris all in thier 3rd summer (everything is within two feet of the foundation). There's a Virginia creeper on the West side planted last yr, I thought it died last winter but theres 4 leaves on it now. I thought it would look lovely covering the West wall but I wonder how best to manage that without damage to the house.  Everything else is perrenial. I actually built this house and am contantly learning about home-maintenance and landscaping issues I live in zone 3, Slave Lake AB 

Ang Dana
    July 14, 2010Reply with quote#5

When I built the house the building inspector said to stay within 8ft. so I got the GContractor to put my basement floor at 4ft. from drit level. Which makes for a lot of stairs but a nicer view downstairs, sunnier  There's always water in my sump but there's no erosion where it vents. There is a history of floods in this area ('80s) but the town has made changes to the highway and the river since.

Rozmund
    July 14, 2010Reply with quote#6

Your garden sounds wonderful...I would not encourage the Virginia Creeper - as the vines adhere to everything and if they find even a hairline crack over the years they will be joining the house interior..
same with silver lace vine - both beautiful, fast growers, but home wreckers...aside from the ferns which require water and humidity,  (make sure you have plenty of airspace between ferns and foundation.. think you are going to be okay...Iris and Lilies do not require more than one inch of water a week...early spring rain which is natural is all they really need to encourage  a healthy start and budding...after that, small drinks are fine - as rhizomes can rot, as well as lily bulbs...too much water on these plants makes their root skins soft and invite invaders such as rodents and insects...as soon as the foliage on the iris starts to look tired, cut them down...same with the lilies...each year you will have to gage it at a different time...this year with all the rain and temps. sunshine about 10 degrees above normal,   I had massive iris spears and few blooms...but the lilies are breathtaking...Shasta Daisies, come in several heights, do not require any excessive watering, and give contrast in a garden...white blossoms look beautiful in the moonlight as well...space them throughout your beds - when the blooms are spent after about 3-4 weeks, cut back severely, the foliage will regrown and look amazing - always think ahead about perennials...some are gorgeous, but get floppy and the leaves look ill after flowering...you want to aim for a lovely well organized green plant presentation after the blooms are done...colour can be introduced for the entire summer with annuals...but again, try for ones that do not require constant dead heading..personally, dwarf and mid size begonias are beautiful, do not require tons of water as they are succulents and the blooms are brilliant in red, coral, pink and yellow....for some reason white does not thrive as well, so I do not bother with them...

Lantanas are also good to put on your wish list for next year...they love heat and since their native habitat is Cuba, where they grow wild, they thrive in so so soil, and simple rain water...come in yellow, coral, and red...I have to actually put an order in with the growers, as they are sold out almost as soon as they arrive...

Dwarf hydrangea bushes are great for fall accent, as are burning bushes...even the dwarf ones will grow to 2 feet in time

another favorite - requiring full sun, little water, insect resistant is:

http://www.google.ca/search?q=goldstrum+black+eyed+susan&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a

I bought 3 small 4" pots 3 years ago and now  have bushes that are 18" across - the blooms last long, and again, the foliage is still attractive when they are done....

another favorite of mine is:

http://www.google.ca/search?q=camillion+plant&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a

again, bought one 6" pot - split it up and now I have wonderful reliable insect free healthy plants
along most of my flower beds. which gives me a reliable edging  in front of other perennials that
can get a bit leggy until I smarten them up...they emerge late in the spring...so if you do get them,
patience is a must...but once they start coming it is a delight...I prefer them to coleus plants and they are perennials to boot.

hope I have given you some nice different ideas...for your wish list for next year...being in a colder zone I  would get your beds ready this fall - lay out your plan, and plant in the spring as soon as frost is gone...another little tip is on the north side of any building...if you plant things that need some extra warmth, a few flat attractive rocks will warm up and warm up the surrounding soil,,,,,and then slowly release the heat into the evening...

another tip - if you do plan your beds this fall, sink a 6" empty pot in the soil where you think you will be putting a plant - place a small rock inside - this not only warms the soil up faster in the sprint -
but you have no actually digging to do...when planting season arrives, remove the pot, drop in some bone meal, and your new plant...fill with fresh triple mix...and you are done...

now clematis vines like to have cool feet, so when you plant them, best to plant something low and dense, to keep their feet constantly shaded while the foliage and blooms soak up the sun...

cheers.



Ang Dana
    July 16, 2010Reply with quote#7

Thank you so much Rozmund, I totally took notes! That creeper has more leaves now, should I move it in the fall after die-off or in the spring? I have an old deck swing it can have out in the yard maybe. There's no problem with the grape vines or roots? they're only a foot from the wall and the trellis goes up to lean against it. You mentioned the ferns against the wall, I guess the siding needs good air circulation to prevent mold and rot. I never thought of that. I hope I dont need to move the grapes? How would I and it handle that? They're 3rd summer.

Rozmund
    July 16, 2010Reply with quote#8

First, leave the grapes until you have harvested the fruits...I frankly do not believe that grape vines are invasive...because, when you go to a winery, the rows of grapes are about 8 feet apart...that tells me that they do not spread all that far, but perhaps go a bit deep...you would have to review the name of the type you have and do a special google on that variety...

Second, yes, the vinyl siding needs to breathe, because don't forget, under the siding is particle board, and insulation...also, they place a wooden platform on top of your basement walls - to this they attach the supports of your home...that is why, while often cement or block basement walls are not nice to look at - they tar up to the water/ground line, and leave the rest open so it can breathe also...so resist the urge to cover up too tightly....also dark and secluded spots invite earwigs, spiders, and other night creatures - they love to hide there during the day - and come out an night and have dinner on your
plants....molds and fungus are now a big deal for health, and home resale....so keep that in mind....

keep the inside of your basement well ventilated, if you require a humidifier part of the year, it is a wonderful investment....buy in the winter when prices are reasonable..otherwise use a fan during hot humid days...prevention is a lot cheaper than fixing....

regarding the Virginia creeper - I can see you love everything alive...me too...if you really want to cover an old swing  - with a creeper: here is an easy way ....in the spring...on either side drop a half bag of triple mix - take several cuttings of  the new growth of the vine and lay them in a trough in the
soil...leaves and all....leave two or three leaves showing....roots will develop in 2 weeks...do not water too much as you want to encourage the roots to form downwards, not up towards the water source...in face, if you took two pieces of an old garden hose  10" long and stick in the ground so that one end is under your pile of soil, you could water through the other end...this keep the soil moist underneath...cover the whole operation with some mulch until when you gentle pull on the top growth it gives a bit of resistance...at this point you can remove the two hose pieces...the plant is happy...train the vine where you want it, and do not be afraid to prune it....if you can pick up an old stained glass window, have it sitting on the back of the garden swing, (attach it of course) and train the vine around it...it will be a real focus and the suns rays coming through the glass will give it the artistic touch...if it all turns out well...you could really get adventurous thusly:

lay down a pathway of flagstones going towards the bench....the shape will be up to you, but at least 3 feet wide...the stones will kill the grass underneath them...you can either leave grass coming up between the flagstones, and whipper snipe them to keep tidy....OR, when the stones have settled and you have made them even....you can kill the grass in between with boiling hot vinegar on a high temperature sunny day...this will kill the grass and roots...scoop them out after a few days - they will be totally brown and brittle, replace with either small stones OR lemon thyme, woolly thyme...from seed, these are perennials and can be walked on - also, the really dwarf alysum, 1" high, is nice...these you can transplant in the spring
they come in shades of pink and purple and after flowering look very nice and can be walked on...

all for now...hope you like my ideas


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